Sunday, September 1, 2013

Myanmar…It’s better on top (of the temples)


5 July 2013 (actually) -- pictures aren't working right now, but I'll try again later.

During my “summer” vacation,  I was on an amazing adventure in Myanmar (formerly called Burma). Let’s just say that there was never a dull moment (unless, of course, you consider napping in a canoe while floating down the Inle Lake channels boring).

17 June: Yangon, Myanmar (the current capital city)

1. They drive on the right side of the road. Apparently, in the 1970’s, they were sick of being reminded that they used to be a British colony, so they switched how they drive. Many (most) of the cars, therefore, have the steering wheel on the right side (not the left).
2. The currency is the Kyat (pronounced chot). This inspired us the frequently sing the tune of the song, ‘Shots, Shots, Shots’ when we spent money.
3. There is a very interesting mix of different cultures and people, in general. Apparently, the country used to be a mix of a few different surrounding countries, and when boundaries shifted, the people stayed where they were (that, of course, is a very simplified explanation that may or may not be accurate).
4. We napped in a park in the middle of the day for nearly one and a half hours. It was glorious, and then we were refreshed, at least enough to walk around the Sule Pagoda and visit the Schwedagon Pagoda at sunset.
Schwedagon Pagoda
5. We were all zombies at dinner due to our previous day’s 4 a.m. flight.  But the glimmer of hope to keep us awake was the ridiculous fashion show/ mini concert happening at the end of the restaurant, with a runway and everything. It was simultaneously confusing and entertaining.
6. We stayed at the Motherland Hostel. I would recommend it to anyone traveling to Myanmar. The rooms are good, and more importantly, the staff is super friendly and helpful!

18 June : Exploring Yangon (after a good night’s rest)

1. We walked to the market. I bought a longyi (the traditional sarong-like skirt that most locals wear) as well as a jade bracelet.
2. We walked to the Zoological Gardens where we saw hippos and bears, and even fed sugar cane to the elephants.
3. Walked along the boardwalk on the lake, as we attempted to get to what we thought was a floating temple.  It actually turned out to be the replica of a floating barge that is some sort of a performing arts center.
4. Kristina spotted a field hockey practice going on, so we crossed the street to check it out. Based on their uniforms, we concluded that they are training for the SEA (South East Asia) games that are being hosted by Myanmar.
5. We waited out a rainstorm at a restaurant, drinking a few select beverages.
6. Dinner at a local restaurant with amazing curry!

19 June : To Kinpun and the Golden Rock

1.  Early (7 a.m.) bus for the 4.5 hour journey, including some great music videos and karaoke videos to be enjoyed along the way.
2. The Golden Rock (actual name Kyaiktiyo) is literally a huge rock balancing on the edge of a cliff, which is supposedly held in place by a piece of Buddha’s hair.

20 June : Back up the hill to Golden Rock

1.  We wanted to do some hiking, so we only took the truck halfway up the hill this time. We followed the hiking trail that had been used until they paved the road the whole way up the hill. There were a bunch of chairs with bamboo poles connected, which people used to hire in order to get to the top of the hill to see the Golden Rock without having to walk. Now that there is the road access, there was nobody being carried.
2.   On the other side of the village valley, we spotted stairs climbing up the hill, leading to what we assumed was another temple. So, we climbed back down one side of the hill and back up the 618 stairs (Kristina counted) and go stuck in a downpour at the top.
3.  We each hopped on the back of a motorbike, with our backpacks and all, for a ride to the bus stop to catch our bus to Mandalay. For $23 USD, the bus was amazingly comfortable!

21 June : The Chacos Debacle
1. Our bus arrived in the city at 5:30 a.m…gotta love those overnight buses. Needless to say, we each took a nap before heading out to explore.
2. The Royal Palace. We wandered off the path around the palace (just a little) to explore old plane and train ‘wreckage.’ We crossed a moat filled with dirty, stagnant water using a few questionable bridges. One of which was simply two boards (2x4’s) meeting to rest upon a small rock in the middle of the moat; this does not make a reliable bridge. We all made it across, but then we had to get back across. Kristina was the last coming back, and when the board tipped, it threw her into the water. She grabbed the camera out of her pocket and threw it to me onshore, but then the mud sucked her feet down deep. The only way she made it out, without being stuck in the mud, was to slip her feet out of her Chacos sandals. She hired a motorbike to take her back to the hostel (barefoot) to shower and change clothes while she mourned the loss of her favorite shoes. The camera had gotten a little wet, so she carried it around in a bag of rice for the next three days. I am happy to report that it has been working just fine since the moat incident.
Moments before the fateful fall...

22 June : The World’s Largest (uncracked) Bell!

1. We rented motorbikes! I only rode on the back with Andrew in order to help with the navigating and keeping track of Kristina behind us.
2. We were stopped at a police check-point and asked for our “license. international license.” After a brief moment of panic, Andrew and Kristina handed over their U.S. driver’s licenses (with which the response was, “Thank You. Enjoy Myanmar.”) and we were on our way with a big sigh!
3. Mingun (town). We were on a mission to see the world’s largest uncracked bell. I know, so impressive! After a couple hours of driving, we made it there. A local asked us if we wanted to see another temple, so we followed her around for awhile. She took us through a village, and Kristina mentioned the Tanakah that we had seen on everyone’s faces (the natural sunblock). She offered to get us some, so we stopped by a woman’s house where she mixed it for us (she ground the piece of wood on a stone tablet, mixed it with water to form a paste and then painted our faces with it).
4. We asked our “guide” to teach us how to Beetle Nut. It’s a type of tobacco mixed with a small amount of coconut milk and wrapped in a leaf. You just pop the entire chunk of leaf in your mouth and start chewing. It was quite bitter, and I got a headache, which I assume was from the nicotine. Before you’re finished with the Beetle Nut, you do NOT swallow your spit, so we had extremely red spit to show off, which the ground is already covered in from the locals chewing/spitting the Beetle Nut.
5. Our other mission for the motorbike trip was to find U Bein Bridge, the world’s longest Teak (a type of tree/wood) bridge. After a couple of wrong turns, and a lot of asking directions, we walked across and back the entire length of the bridge.
6. We took the train to Bagan that night for $10 USD. There were no covered windows, so the train car was filled with bugs, most interestingly many dragon flys. It was a very bumpy ride, but I still attempted to sleep sitting in my seat without my mouth falling open and being invaded by flying insects.

23 June : Biking in Bagan

1. Bagan has Mt Popa, which is a temple on top of a rock (it reminded me of Devil’s Tower in the states, except there is a Buddhist temple at the top).
2. Kristina and I rode on the top of the pickup truck, holding onto the racks of course, on the way back to Bagan, to enjoy the views.

24 June : (Happy Birthday to my sister!) Fun fact: This was my favorite place in Myanmar!

1. We rented bicycles for 1500 Kyats (about $1.50) for the entire day.
2. We spent the entire day riding around to different temples in a valley full of temples outside of the city. Literally, there are temples as far as you can see. It was absolutely amazing. The best part was that we could stop anywhere we wanted to, and I had fun climbing up on many of the temples.


3. Kristina bought me some Mandalay rum (to support to local economy, of course).

25 June : Relax in Bagan
1. We chartered a boat to take us to a cave and some nearby temples. We drank tea at a monastery where they showed us the deep, dark parts of the cave for meditation.
2. Late bus to Kalaw

26-28 June : Kalaw trek to Inle Lake
1. We did a 3-day trek to Inle Lake with a group of 11 of us (includes 2 guides: Paol and Puri).
Farming!
2. First day we walked about 6 hours. We ate and slept in a local village.
3. Second day we walked about 7 hours and then slept at a monastery.
4. Third day we walked about 5 hours and arrived at the southern side of the lake.
Boat ride to Nyang Shwe (town) after our trek
I think we're ruining the scenery :)




5. In total, our guides told us we walked a total of 65 km (about 40 miles) over three days! My feet and legs were sore, to say the least. We walked through all of the farmland. They grow everything from peaches and corn, to carrots and pineapple.
29 June : Nyang Shwe (the town by the lake)

1. We rented bicycles to go to the Hot Springs, which were temporarily closed for renovations. Luckily, we stopped nearby for lunch and a local woman showed us their local set-up to the hot spring. There was no regulation on the temperature, so it was too hot too even put my feet in. It was still cool to see the pools and have that woman so nicely show us the other hot springs for free.
2. We biked to the Red Mountain Estates Winery on the other side of town. We took a short tour of the facilities, had a wine tasting, and then shared a bottle of wine. Bought some wine to take back to Jakarta (we made it all the way to Malaysia, but then they would not let it as a carry-on because it wasn’t duty-free. I ended up packing it in my backpack wrapped in clothes and towels. One bottle survived, but one soaked my clothes; luckily it cost only $10).
So artsy, la.
3. We chatted with two American teachers from Boston who were on summer vacation.

30 June : Boat Trip on the lake

1. We spent the whole day riding in a boat around the lake.
2. We first went early to a local market. We saw traditional weaving. I bought a headband that is pretty sweet. We witnessed cigar making and boat/canoe building. We watched jewelry making at a silversmith. We went to the ‘jumping cat monastery’, but the cats weren’t performing because it was not high season for tourists.
3. We rode the boat back through the floating gardens (there are floating villages also, but they’re actually on stilts, not like Water World) where there were so many floating tomato plants I couldn’t handle it. I didn’t eat any, but it was tempting with all of the ‘rejects’ floating by in the water.
4. We also drove by many traditional fishermen who stand at the front of their small boat and wrap one leg around a paddle to move while they collect their nets using their hands.


1 July : Canoe trip on lake

1. I sent a few postcards back home, but I haven’t heard if they’ve made it there, yet.
2. We rented a canoe, and it turned out to be owned and operated by a 60-year old woman. We felt bad at first for having her paddle us around, but then we all took turns helping her paddle and Andrew went back to his days in Crew to help her most.
Here's Andrew doing some work while Kristina and I nap
3. Kristina and I laid down and fell asleep peacefully. We were only awoken when she gave up flower necklaces she had made.
4. We spent 2  ½ hours in the canoe slowly floating around the back canals of the lake, past the locals doing dishes and showering in the canal (don’t worry, they wear a sarong when they shower).
5. We each got a massage for about $4 each, including tea and crackers.
6. After sharing another bottle of wine, we ate dinner at a Nepalese restaurant where I found the best food (curry) in the town.

2 July : short trek back to Red Mountain Estates

1. We trekked up to get a great view of the lake.
Tanakah!
2. We walked into a cave. When I stood up, putting my hands above me so as to not hit my head, I didn’t realize the ceiling was covered in bats. Luckily, we did not disturb any.
3. Our highschool-age guide had two friends with him, so they could learn how to become guides. They were nice enough to help show us how to use the jar of Tanakah (sun block). It actually kept me from sweating (so much) and no sunburn!
4. We took another overnight bus back to Yangon to catch our flight back to Jakarta.

My most favorite trip, so far, while I've been living here. I'm sure it helps that I had such amazing travel companions named Kristina and Andrew!


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